But before that last course, the entire group got up from the table and descended, to the strains of The Ramones’ “I Don’t Want to Be Buried In Pet Cemetery,” to Ben Shewry’s firepit. For his dish, Shewry, of Melbourne’s Attica, had recreated a hangi, the Maori-style barbecue of his New Zealand childhood. After digging a meter-deep hole and building a bonfire on top of it to heat rocks, he had buried two wild boar piglets, covered them up with dirt, and let them cook for nine hours. As he unearthed the meal, and let the diners go at the tender boar meat with their fingers, Shewry reflected on the similarities between New Zealand and Polish food. “They both take really humble ingredients,” he said. “And turn them into something fantastic.”
Cook It Raw
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